Normally when I first arrive at a festival I expect to be greeted by the sight of one of three things. Either a group of ‘lads’ in matching t-shirts, a tripped out hippie peaking on acid too early and becoming entranced by the inlay of their tent, or someone selling ‘genuine’ north American dream catchers to yuppie idiots. What I don’t expect to see is a huge stately home with its own church in the grounds.

Based on the family estate of the Earl of St. Germans, the Port Eliot festival began as a small literary and music festival in 2003, but over the years has grown to slightly more than just a pretentious gathering of London-based broadsheet readers. 2010 is my first year here and it’s pretty special. The scenic grounds remind me a little of the Big Chill Festival, as does the fact that drugged up mentalists and families with small children seem to happily coexist without anyone getting offended. The small size of the grounds also means that when the performers are wandering round (which they all do) odds are you will run into them. And while seeing the likes of actor Tom Hollander (best known as Simon Foster from In the Loop) and Jarvis Cocker is pretty cool, it’s nothing compared to the spectacle of ceramicist and transsexual, Grayson Perry, just strolling past in full regalia.

Perry was, in fact, one of my highlights of the whole weekend. His talk in the bowling green seminar tent was inspiring as he gave his two cents on topics as diverse as corporate branding, religion, masculinity and his teddy bear, called Alan: “I’m not an art work, I’m just me in a dress” pretty much defines his ‘take me or leave me’ attitude, and you can’t help but wonder if that’s the crux of his appeal.

“Now look lads, do either of you know where I can score some drugs.” This are the words croaked into the ears of me and my mate Chris by East London’s answer to Johnny Cash, the right honourable Larry Love. The Alabama 3 have been around for a little over a decade, and are still most famous for singing the theme tune from the Sopranos. However, there is a lot more to them than that.  The bands amusing yet emotional brand of Country and Western Acid House goes down a storm whenever they play, and even this relatively low key acoustic set is wrought with more energy than ten lesser bands. Who else could convincingly mash up Johnny Cash’s “Folsom Prison Blues” with KRS One’s “Sound of Da Police”?

While these celebs may have been thrilling to see, it was a much lesser known artist who proved to be the highlight of the whole weekend, and not just for me. Mik Artistik is a fifty five year old musician and comedian from Leeds, and he is the hardest working man in showbiz. He and his band, The Ego Trip, played about five sets over the course of the entire weekend, including an impromptu acoustic one at about two am on Monday morning after most of the power had been shut off. The bands mix of off kilter music, comedy, pathos, and Mik’s, occasionally, bizarre onstage persona (which includes a habit of reaching into his pockets and throwing straws everywhere) means that everyone who sees them once makes the effort to see them again. Stylistically he goes between rockers like “Window Cleaner” and “In the library,” to more sedate ballads like “I’m turning into Dad” and the anthemic “Sweet leaf of the North.” According to t’internet Mik and the boys are on tour almost continuously, so if you get the chance, check em out, it’ll change your life.